Version #2
Review
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VERSION 2 - Flared Panel Skirt with V-Front Neckline.
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What You'll Achieve In This Module
- how to alter your Sleeveless Bodice pattern to a V neck.
- how to alter your Basic Skirt pattern to a Flared Panelled Skirt.
Altering Your Bodice Pattern For Version 2
1. Make a copy of all your Bodice and Skirt Patterns before
you proceed. 2. Rule a line up from the CF and then rule another line out from the CF line, at a 90 degree angle, to meet with the tip of the shoulder line. |
3. You need to find the measurement for your V Neck depth.
Measure down, on yourself, from the hollow in your front neck to the desired depth you'd like. Then transfer this measurement to your CF bodice pattern. My measurement was: 15cm | 6" |
4. This Step is totally Optional. But I measured out from the shoulder line
point 1cm | 3/8" as I didn't want my neckline that wide. Then I made a mark. NOTE: You can leave this step out and just go with the neck point that's there. |
5. Now rule a line connecting the CF mark with the Shoulder Point mark.
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6. Make a mark half way between the CF mark and the Shoulder Point mark. The measure in 1cm | 3/8" and make another mark.
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7. Now rule a slightly curved line. This is now your NEW V Neckline.
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8. If your have made a new Shoulder Point like I have you will now need to connect the Shoulder Point with the Shoulder/Armhole Point.
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10. This is what your new CF Bodice Pattern will look like.
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NOTE: Once you have made your Toile and ok with the neckline you will then need to add 6mm | 1/4" seam allowance and also make your facing.....but I will show you that after the fitting stage.
Altering Your Front Skirt Pattern
1. Make sure you have made a copy of your altered skirt pattern front and back.
Don't worry too much about drawing the dart in on the front and back as you are going to get rid of the dart when you alter your skirt pattern. But, please keep the your skirt pattern handy as you will need the measurements of the dart. |
2. Go back to your CF Bodice Panel that you just altered and mark in a 1cm | 3/8" seam allowance.
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3. Now measure from the CF line out to the seam allowance mark.
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5. Now go back to your Side Front Bodice pattern and mark in 1cm | 3/8" seam allowance only on the panel seam.
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6. Now measure from the side seam into the seam allowance mark.
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6. Now transfer those measurements to your skirt waist line. Measure from the side seam in and make a mark.
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7. Find the middle of the two marks and make another mark. Measure out from the CF to the new mark and jot down that amount.
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8. Transfer the measurement you recorded to half way down the skirt and at the hem and mark.
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9. Rule a line from the waist to the hem connecting the three marks. This will now be the panel line.
NOTE: Mark in your grainline to the Side Front Panel. |
10. Measure down the the waist at the CF 26.5cm | 10.5" and rule a line out to the side seam at a 90 degree angle.
11. Measure down from the waist at the panel line 8cm | 3" and mark. |
12. Draw in the dart lines making sure the lines are slightly cured so that it doesn't end in a point on the panel line.
NOTE: The red line at the hip will be notches in the next photo. Make sure you do the same on your pattern. |
13. Now cut on the panel line and cut away the darts.
Make sure the red notches are still in place at the dart point and the hip line. |
14. Measure out 5cm | 2" from the hem on each seam line then rule a line up the the notch marks at the hip.
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15. Now square a line from the new panel line to the hem of the old panel.
16. Now curve in the new hemline going from the seam line to the centre of the panel and then out to the opposite seam line.
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17. Next you will need to make sure the new panel lines meet the skirt at the hips with a curve and not a straight line. So you may need to curve in an extra line so that the lines blend with a curve and not a point.
NOTE: This step is important. The skirt will have a softer look at the hip line rather than a sharp seam lines that really won't look nice at all. |
18. Voila! This is how your new Front Flared Panel skirt should look like. All you need to do now is to add the seam allowance and hem.
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19. Add 1cm |3/8" seam allowances to:
Add 2cm | 3/4" to the hem. |
IMPORTANT POINTS TO NOTE:
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Altering Your Back Skirt Pattern
You are going to be doing the exact same alterations to the back skirt as your did to the front.
1. Make sure you take a copy of your back skirt. Please don't use the original skirt.
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2. Measure on your back bodice pattern from the side seam to the first dart line then from the second dart line to the back line. Jot down the amounts.
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3. Transfer those amounts to the back skirt just like you did on the front skirt.
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4. Find the centre of the dart marks and transfer that measurement from the back line out down the skirt at the hip and the hemline. Then connect the marks ruling a line from the hem to the waist.
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5. Measure down 26.5cm | 10.5" at the back line and rule out another line at a 90 degree angle. Then measure down 12.5cm | 5" down the panel line and mark that point.
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6. Draw in the dart lines with a slight curve.
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7. Before you cut your panel line make sure you have marked your new grain line on the side back skirt panel. Notice the horizontal line 26.5cm | 10.5" down have now been turned into notches for the new flare panel line to start from.
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8. Measure out 5cm | 2" from each seam line at the hem and rule up to the notch points at the hipline.
NOTE: Like the front make sure when the line joins at the hip that it blends in with the seam line with a slight curve. |
9. Rule a line square with the new panel line down to the hem line.
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10. Now redraw the new hem line in curving the line down to the centre of the panel at the hem line then up to the other side of the panel.
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11. Your new back flared panel skirt should be looking similar to this image.
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12. Add your seam allowances of 1cm | 3/8" to the panel lines only and 2cm | 3/4" to the hem.
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IMPORTANT NOTE: Like the front, make sure that you've marked all your notches, grain lines and your pattern information.
Sewing Your Dress to Fitting Stage
Before you start cutting out please make sure you have the following on your pattern pieces:
I know making a Toile to fit your pattern can be a bit of a pain in the butt - but, I'll let you in on a little secret. All the fashion designers make Toile after Toile before they are finally happy with their sample then they get their pattern ready to mass produce or make short runs.
So you're not alone in this process AND you'll guarantee that you won't mess up that $30/metre fabric that you've bought for that special occasion.
Well then, have I convinced you that it really is a necessary step to sew up your Toile first? Yes? Fantastic, then let's get going.
NOTE: Always make sure you sew your Toile in fabric similar to the fabric you'll be using. Eg. If you are making a dress out of Cotton Drill then I would use Calico or a cheap Cotton Drill for your sample. If you are making your dress out of Cotton Voile then sew your Toile in a cheap lawn and so on.
- all notches marked
- grain lines on every pattern piece
- pattern information on every piece.
I know making a Toile to fit your pattern can be a bit of a pain in the butt - but, I'll let you in on a little secret. All the fashion designers make Toile after Toile before they are finally happy with their sample then they get their pattern ready to mass produce or make short runs.
So you're not alone in this process AND you'll guarantee that you won't mess up that $30/metre fabric that you've bought for that special occasion.
Well then, have I convinced you that it really is a necessary step to sew up your Toile first? Yes? Fantastic, then let's get going.
NOTE: Always make sure you sew your Toile in fabric similar to the fabric you'll be using. Eg. If you are making a dress out of Cotton Drill then I would use Calico or a cheap Cotton Drill for your sample. If you are making your dress out of Cotton Voile then sew your Toile in a cheap lawn and so on.
Method for Sewing Version #2 Toile
1. Sew a stay stitch around front and back necklines to prevent stretching.
2. Sew your side front bodice panels to your CF bodice piece with right sides facing.
Press to the CF.
2. Sew your side front bodice panels to your CF bodice piece with right sides facing.
Press to the CF.
3. Sew your back darts.
Press to the side seams.
Press to the side seams.
4. Now sew your side and shoulder seams and press open.
5. Pin and sew your Side Front skirt panels to your CF skirt panel. Make sure you match up the notches.
Now repeat this step to the back. Leave the back seam open.
Press to the CF.
6. Pin and sew the skirt side seams with right sides together and press open.
Now repeat this step to the back. Leave the back seam open.
Press to the CF.
6. Pin and sew the skirt side seams with right sides together and press open.
7. Attach the skirt waist and bodice waist together with right side together. Make sure you are matching up all the panel seams and side seams.
Press side seams open.
8. Now the back skirt CB seam needs to be sewn to the zip notch.
NOTE: MAKE SURE YOU HAVE THE WRONG SIDES TOGETHER. This will help with fitting the dress.
Now you are ready to fit!
Press side seams open.
8. Now the back skirt CB seam needs to be sewn to the zip notch.
NOTE: MAKE SURE YOU HAVE THE WRONG SIDES TOGETHER. This will help with fitting the dress.
Now you are ready to fit!
Fitting Your Toile
With the fitting of the Styles 1 - 5 it's all about whether you like the alterations you've done to your basic dress in order to get the desired style.
This is what you'll be looking for:
1. Are you happy with your neckline?
If Yes, then continue.
If No, you need to decide if the neckline is too big, too small or if it gapes. Take a selfie of the way it looks so that you can refer back to when you need to alter the pattern.
2. Are you happy with the flare of the skirt?
If Yes, then you are done and you can start cutting out your dress.
If No, you need to decide if the flare of the skirt is too much or not enough.
3. Once you are ready to start cutting the dress in your gorgeous new fabric make sure you have seam allowances on the Necklines and also Neck and Armhole facings. Refer below.
4. If you are happy with the fit then you can start cutting out your new dress.
5. If you need to fix a few problems then you need to transfer those alterations to your pattern. Refer back to Module 1:3.
6. If you have done some major alterations then you will need to sew up another Toile :). If you've done a few minor alterations and are confident with them then you can start cutting out your dress.
This is what you'll be looking for:
1. Are you happy with your neckline?
If Yes, then continue.
If No, you need to decide if the neckline is too big, too small or if it gapes. Take a selfie of the way it looks so that you can refer back to when you need to alter the pattern.
- If it gapes you need to do a Front Neckline Gaping Alteration to your pattern. Refer back to Module 1:2.
- If the neckline is too big you need to decide how far to bring up and in the neckline. Jot down your amounts.
- If the neckline is too small - mark on your Toile with a Nikko pen where you'd like your neckline to be.
2. Are you happy with the flare of the skirt?
If Yes, then you are done and you can start cutting out your dress.
If No, you need to decide if the flare of the skirt is too much or not enough.
- If it's too much then you can pin away the excess fabric and then re-assess.
- If it's not enough then you will need to work out how much more flare you would like.
- Also, you will need to decide if you are happy with where the flare starts. You can start your flare higher or lower.
3. Once you are ready to start cutting the dress in your gorgeous new fabric make sure you have seam allowances on the Necklines and also Neck and Armhole facings. Refer below.
4. If you are happy with the fit then you can start cutting out your new dress.
5. If you need to fix a few problems then you need to transfer those alterations to your pattern. Refer back to Module 1:3.
6. If you have done some major alterations then you will need to sew up another Toile :). If you've done a few minor alterations and are confident with them then you can start cutting out your dress.
CREATE 5 STYLES WITH 1 PATTERN!
BONUS #1 - Choosing Your Shape
BONUS #2 - Choosing Your Colours
BONUS #3 - Choosing The Right Fabric For Your Dress
BONUS #4 - BOOKING 2 SKYPE CALLS WITH ME
- WELCOME!
- MODULE 1 - Making Your Sleeveless Bodice Toile
- MODULE 2 - Making Your Short Sleeve Bodice Toile
- MODULE 3 - Making Your Skirt Toile
- MODULE 4 - 5 Styles
BONUS #1 - Choosing Your Shape
BONUS #2 - Choosing Your Colours
BONUS #3 - Choosing The Right Fabric For Your Dress
BONUS #4 - BOOKING 2 SKYPE CALLS WITH ME
