1. On the CF Bodice rule out a line at a 90 degree angle from the CF line.
The top line needs to intercept the outside shoulder point and the second line needs to intercept the outside point at the armhole.
The top line is the Front Shoulder Line.
The second line is the Across Front Line.
2. On the armhole seam only, measure out 1cm|3/8".
1. Draw a line out at a 90 degree angle to the back seam line and intercept it with the shoulder/armhole point.
This is the Back Shoulder Line.
2. Draw another line half way down the armhole at a 90 degree angle to the back seam. Rule out from the back seam line. This line is about 10cm|4" down from the top line.
This is the Across Back Line.
2. Measure out the same amount from the armhole/shoulder point on the CF pattern and mark that point in on the back pattern.
3. Now find your Across Back (AB) measurement on your measurement sheet and halve it and add 1cm (for the seam allowance).
eg. my measurement was 37c|/14.5" so half that is 18.25cm|7.25" + 1cm|3/8" = 19.25cm|7 5/8". I then marked that measurement on he AB line.
You can download sleeve pattern HERE.
1. As a starting point use the size that you started with on your Sleeveless Bodice in Module 1.
2. Cut the sleeve out and then draw in your side seam seam allowance of 1cm.
3. Draw a line across from top of the side seam to the top of the side seam on the other side.
4. Then measure half way down and draw another line across.
5. Find your Arm Girth measurement on your measurement sheet and measure across the last horizontal line you drew. You need to measure from seam allowance to seam allowance.
Your measurement will be correct if you have your Arm Girth measurement plus 4cm|1.5".
eg. My Arm Girth measurement is 29cm|11.5" plus 4cm|1.5" = 33cm|13". So my sleeve is correct and I don't need to do anything else to this sleeve.
4. Once you've done this you now need to measure the seams of the bodices and the sleeve and make sure the sleeve fits the bodice armhole.
I'll explain what I did with my pattern.
First of all I measured on the seam line of all the pattern pieces to get the measurement. The method I used of measuring was to put the tape measure on it's side and walk it around the pattern seam line.
9. Next I measured the front sleeve from A to B on the seam line with my tape measure on it's side and got:
Front sleeve measures 21.5cm|8 1/2"
Front armholes measure 20cm|8 1/4"
which makes the sleeve bigger by .5cm|1/4" - this is good.
Back sleeve measures 23.5cm|9 1/4"
Back armhole measures 23cm|9"
which makes the sleeve bigger by .5cm|1/4"
So overall the sleeve is bigger by 1cm|1/2" which is great for minimal ease.
The easing for a sleeve should be no greater than 2 cm.
1. With right sides together match up the side seams of the sleeve to the bodice and the sleeve head notch with the bodice shoulder seam.
2. Pull up the gathering stitch so the sleeve is just eased into the bodice armhole.
3. Start sew a 1cm|3/8" seam from the underarm seam.
4. Repeat this process with the other sleeve.