MODULE 4:1 - STYLE 1 - Version 1 & 2

Woohoo!  You made it through the first 3 Modules - yes, they were a bit hard and just a little bit frustrating.  And now it's time to have some fun.

These beautiful dresses come from Review.  I just love their gorgeous, girly, classical dresses.  So for Style 1 I've chosen to base the design on this dress.  A lot of customers have wanted the V neck option and I thought we'd start easy with a panel skirt and Version 2 below has a straight panel skirt.  So you can make 1 or the other or BOTH.....it's your choice.

The drawings on the right are the designs I'll be teaching you to alter on your basic pattern you created in the last 3 modules.


Ok, let's PLAY!  (click on the drawings below to take you to the instructions)
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VERSION 1
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VERSION 2
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VERSION 1 - Straight Panel Skirt with Scoop Front Neckline and pleated Cap Sleeves.
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VERSION 2 - Flared Panel Skirt with V-Front Neckline.
8.  If your have made a new Shoulder Point like I have you will now need to connect the Shoulder Point with the Shoulder/Armhole Point.
10.  This is what your new CF Bodice Pattern will look like.

Altering Your Front Skirt Pattern - Versions 1 & 2

1.  Make sure you have made a copy of your altered skirt pattern front and back.

Don't worry too much about drawing the dart in on the front and back as you are going to get rid of the dart when you alter your skirt pattern.  But, please keep the your skirt pattern handy as you will need the measurements of the dart.
2.  Go back to your CF Bodice Panel that you just altered and mark in a 1cm | 3/8" seam allowance.
3.  Now measure from the CF line out to the seam allowance mark.
5.  Now go back to your Side Front Bodice pattern and mark in 1cm | 3/8" seam allowance only on the panel seam.
6.  Now measure from the side seam into the seam allowance mark.
6.  Now transfer those measurements to your skirt waist line.  Measure from the side seam in and make a mark.
7.  Find the middle of the two marks and make another mark.  Measure out from the CF to the new mark and jot down that amount.
8.  Transfer the measurement you recorded to half way down the skirt and at the hem and mark.
9.  Rule a line from the waist to the hem connecting the three marks.  This will now be the panel line.

NOTE:  Mark in your grainline to the Side Front Panel.
10.  Measure down the the waist at the CF 26.5cm | 10.5" and rule a line out to the side seam at a 90 degree angle.

11.  Measure down from the waist at the panel line 8cm | 3" and mark.
12.  Draw in the dart lines making sure the lines are slightly cured so that it doesn't end in a point on the panel line.

NOTE:  The red line at the hip will be notches in the next photo.  Make sure you do the same on your pattern.
13.  Now cut on the panel line and cut away the darts.

Make sure the red notches are still in place at the dart point and the hip line.
14.  If you have decided to make Version 2 then all you need to do now is to add a 1cm / 3/8" seam allowance on the panel lines and a 5cm | 2" hem.
CONTINUING ON WITH VERSION 1 SKIRT
14. Measure down from the Waistline on all 4 Panel edges 31cm | 12" and mark each panel at that point.
15.  Measure out from each four panel edges at the hem 
5cm | 2" and mark.
16.  Now connect the mark at the hipline to the mark at the hemline on each panel.
17.  Now measure up 1cm | 3/8" from the hemline on each panel line and mark.  This will be the start of your new hemline.
18.  Now draw in a new line curving from each mark down to the original hemline and then back up to the mark on the other panel.

Your hemlines are now curved.
19.  All you need to do now is to add your 1cm | 3/8" seam allowance to:
  • CF line
  • CF panel line
  • Side front Panel line

Don't add seam allowance to side seam as it's already added.


20.  Now add 2cm for the hem.


And you are done with the front Flared Panel Skirt Pattern.  Now it's onto the back skirt pattern.

Altering your Back Skirt Pattern - Versions 1 & 2

You are going to be doing the exact same alterations to the back skirt as your did to the front.

Sewing Your Dress to Fitting Stage

I know making a Toile to fit your pattern can be a bit of a pain in the butt - but, I'll let you in on a little secret.  All the fashion designers make Toile after Toile before they are finally happy with their sample then they get their pattern ready to mass produce or make short runs.  

So you're not alone in this process AND you'll guarantee that you won't mess up that $30/metre fabric that you've bought for that special occasion.

Well then, have I convinced you that it really is a necessary step to sew up your Toile first?  Yes?  Fantastic, then let's get going.


NOTE:  Always make sure you sew your Toile in fabric similar to the fabric you'll be using.  Eg.  If you are making a dress out of Cotton Drill then I would use Calico or a cheap Cotton Drill for your sample.  If you are making your dress out of Cotton Voile then sew your Toile in a cheap lawn and so on.

1.  Sew your side front bodice panels to your CF bodice piece with right sides facing.  


Press to the CF.
2.  Sew your back darts.  


Press to the side.
3.  Now sew your side and shoulder seams and press open.
4.  Pin and sew your side front skirt panels to your CF skirt panel.  Make sure you match up the notches.

Now repeat this step to the back.  Leave the back seam open.

Press to the CF.
5.  Attach the skirt waist and bodice waist together with right side together.  Make sure you are matching up all the panel seams and side seams.


Press side seams open.
6.  Now the back skirt CB seam needs to be sewn to the zip notch.


NOTE:  MAKE SURE YOU HAVE THE WRONG SIDES TOGETHER.  This will help with fitting the dress.